Nebraska Core Aeration

Why Aeration Matters: Understanding Soil Compaction

The Lincoln/Omaha/Eastern Nebraska Soil Problem

Most lawns in our area have heavy clay soil with these characteristics:

• Naturally compacted: Clay particles pack tightly together
• Poor drainage: Water pools on surface instead of penetrating
• Limited oxygen: Roots suffocate in dense soil
• Restricted root growth: Roots can’t penetrate deep, creating shallow root systems
• Traffic compaction: Foot traffic, mowing, and activity further compress soil over time

What Compaction Does to Your Lawn

How Aeration Solves These Problems

Core aeration removes 3-4 inch plugs of soil, creating holes that:

• Break up compaction: Physically opens dense clay soil
• Allow deep root growth: Roots follow holes downward, establishing deeper root systems
• Improve water penetration: Water flows through holes instead of running off
• Increase oxygen exchange: Air enters soil through holes, revitalizing root zone
• Enable nutrient access: Fertilizer reaches roots through aeration channels
• Break down thatch: Soil microbes from plugs help decompose thatch layer

Service Details: Aeration vs. Aeration & Seed

Core Aeration (Standalone Service)

Timing: October 1-31 (after summer stress, before winter dormancy)

Best for: Maintenance, healthy lawns needing soil improvement, properties not ready for seeding commitment

Process

1. Equipment: Professional stand-on aerators (primary) with walk-behind units for tight areas
2. Plug depth: 3-4 inches deep (much deeper than homeowner rental machines achieve 1-2 inches)
3. Coverage: Single pass covering entire lawn
4. Plugs left on lawn: Soil plugs remain on surface to break down naturally and provide microbes for thatch decomposition
5. Notification: Clients will be notified a week ahead of time.  This is to ensure they get the sprinklers marked.  They need to respond to confirm this appointment.  

Aftercare for Aeration Only

• Mowing: Resume normal mowing schedule
• Watering: Continue regular watering (no special requirements)
• Plugs: Will break down naturally in 2-4 weeks from mowing and rain; can be raked if desired but not necessary
• No restrictions: Can walk on lawn immediately, normal activity

Annual Recommendation: We recommend aeration EVERY YEAR to combat ongoing soil compaction from traffic, mowing, and weather. Annual aeration maintains deep root systems and prevents compaction from rebuilding.

Aeration & Overseeding (Premium Lawn Renovation)

Timing: August 15 – September 30 (optimal for cool-season grass seed germination)

Best for: Thin lawns, bare patches, outdated grass varieties, anyone committed to achieving the best possible lawn

Process

1. Double-pass aeration: Lawn is aerated TWICE to create maximum soil disruption and seed-to-soil contact. Very thin or bare areas may be completely torn up (this is normal and beneficial).
2. Seed selection: Premium blend of 3 Turf Type Tall Fescue cultivars specifically selected for Eastern Nebraska climate with excellent NTEP (National Turfgrass Evaluation Program) testing results
3. Seed application: 5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft broadcast seeding (higher rates in bare areas)
4. Hand cultivation: Areas unreachable by aerator are cultivated with handheld tools and seeded manually
5. Equipment: Stand-on aerators for deep 3-4 inch plugs, maximizing seed germination potential
6. Door hanger: Detailed aftercare instructions left at completion

⚠️ CRITICAL: Watering Schedule for Aeration & Seed

Success depends entirely on following this watering regimen:

Weeks 1-4: Water 2-3 times daily

• Early morning (6-8 AM): 10-15 minutes per zone
• Midday (12-2 PM): 10-15 minutes per zone
• Early evening (4-6 PM): 10-15 minutes per zone
• Goal: Keep soil surface damp at all times. Seed has no deep roots yet and will die if surface dries out. 

Weeks 5-6: Water 1 time daily

• Early morning: 15-20 minutes per zone
• Goal: Grass is establishing roots but still shallow; daily watering maintains moisture

Weeks 7-November: Water 3 times per week

• Resume normal deep watering schedule
• 20-30 minutes per zone, 3× per week
• Goal: Encourage deep root growth through less frequent, deeper watering

⚠️ WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON’T WATER ⚠️

If you skip watering or go 2-3 days without water during the first 4 weeks, it will DRAMATICALLY reduce results. In most cases, the grass seed will DIE. This is not a “best practice”—it’s an absolute requirement.

Think of it like a newborn baby: New grass seed needs frequent care to survive. It has no established root system to access deeper soil moisture. The surface MUST stay damp.

Why We Seed August 15 – September 30 (Not Spring)

Fall Seeding vs. Spring Seeding

Bottom Line: Fall seeding has 85-95% success vs. 20-40% for spring. We don’t offer spring seeding because we won’t take your money for a service that’s likely to fail.

Equipment: Why Stand-On Aerators Matter

Stand-On Aerators vs. Walk-Behind vs. Tow-Behind

Why Plug Depth Matters

• Shallow plugs (1-2″): Only scratch the surface; don’t break compaction in root zone
• Deep plugs (3-4″): Penetrate into compacted clay layer where roots actually grow; provide channels for deep root development
• Root growth follows holes: Roots naturally grow down through aeration channels, establishing deeper root systems that access moisture and nutrients unavailable to shallow roots

Our Stand-On Advantage: Professional equipment achieves 3-4 inch depth that walk-behind rentals simply cannot match. This is why our aeration delivers superior, lasting results.

Seed Selection: Why Turf Type Tall Fescue

Our Seed Blend Specifications

Type: Blend of 3 Turf Type Tall Fescue cultivars

Selection Criteria: Excellent NTEP (National Turfgrass Evaluation Program) testing results

Region-Specific: Specifically chosen for Eastern Nebraska climate and soil conditions

Why Turf Type Tall Fescue (TTTF)?

Superior to other grass types for Nebraska for these reasons:

Advantages of Modern TTTF Cultivars

• Improved genetics: Newer varieties (developed in last 10-15 years) far superior to older tall fescue
• Finer texture: Looks and feels like bluegrass but performs like drought-tolerant fescue
• Consistent color: Deep green all season without summer dormancy
• Lower maintenance: Requires less water and fewer fungicide treatments than bluegrass
• Better performance: Thrives in Nebraska’s temperature extremes (cold winters, hot summers)

Why We Use a 3-Cultivar Blend

Blending three different TTTF varieties provides:

• Genetic diversity: If disease affects one cultivar, others remain healthy
• Broader adaptation: Different varieties perform best in different microenvironments (sun vs. shade, wet vs. dry areas)
• Consistent appearance: Blend creates uniform look across varying conditions
• Improved resilience: Multiple genetics provide better overall stress tolerance

What We DO NOT Do (Service Exclusions)

Important: Communicate these limitations clearly to clients

• We do NOT offer Aeration AND Aeration & Seed together: Client chooses one service or the other, not both in same season
• We do NOT mark sprinkler heads: Client is responsible for marking sprinklers before service. We will NOT aerate if sprinklers are not marked (we don’t want liability for damaged irrigation systems)
• We do NOT offer these services in spring: Spring aeration disrupts preemergent barrier; spring seeding has minimal success rate (see comparison table above)
• We do NOT seed small patches only: Minimum charge covers up to 5,000 sq ft. Patch seeding creates patchwork quilt appearance (different texture/color). Better to do entire lawn, front yard, or back yard as complete areas.
• We do NOT provide starter fertilizer with seeding: If client is on our 6-step fertilizer program, soil has adequate nutrients. Starter fertilizer is unnecessary and can cause over-fertilization.

⚠️ CRITICAL: Sprinkler Marking Requirement

Clients MUST mark sprinkler heads before scheduled service date or they will be removed from dispatch schedule.

Why we’re strict about this:

• Aerator tines can destroy sprinkler heads ($50-150 per head to replace)

• Damaged irrigation systems create liability issues

• Clients blame us for damage even when they didn’t mark heads

• We send notification ~1 week before service; client must respond confirming sprinklers are marked

If client doesn’t respond or can’t mark sprinklers: They’re removed from dispatch and must reschedule to designated reschedule weeks.

Coordination with Fertilizer & Weed Control Program

Important: Do NOT Skip Fertilizer Applications!

Common Question: “Should I skip fertilizer applications when getting aeration and seeding?”

Answer: NO! Do NOT skip fertilizer. Here’s what happens:

What We Do When You Seed

• • Account noted: We mark your account that lawn has been seeded
  • Continue fertilizer: Fertilizer is VERY beneficial for new seed—we continue applications
  • Skip herbicides: We skip weed killer/herbicide for 6 weeks to protect new grass (new grass must be mowed 3 times before it can survive herbicides)
  • Resume herbicides after 6 weeks: Once grass is established, weed control resumes

• Free service calls: Client can call us for a free service call to address weeds after 6 weeks.  

Why This Coordination Matters

• New grass needs nutrients: Fertilizer promotes fast establishment and strong root development
• But can’t handle herbicides: “Baby” grass is killed by weed control products until mature (3 mowings)
• Free weed control callback: At 6 weeks post-seeding, call for free service to eliminate weeds that emerged during the no-spray period

Critical: You MUST notify us if you seed your lawn so we can adjust treatments accordingly. Failure to notify = risk of new grass being killed by herbicides. If we have seeded it we will note the account no need to call and notify us if we are doing the seeding.

Pricing Structure

Standard Pricing

Aeration Only

Base Price: $90 for first 5,000 sq ft

Additional Area: $6 per 1,000 sq ft over 5,000

Tax: NO sales tax on aeration

Aeration & Overseeding

Base Price: $297 for first 5,000 sq ft

Additional Area: $34 per 1,000 sq ft over 5,000

Tax: NO sales tax on aeration & seed

Pricing Examples

Value Analysis: Aeration & Seed

What you get for the additional investment:

• Double-pass aeration (vs. single pass)
• 5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft of premium TTTF seed ($3-5/lb retail = $15-20 worth of seed per 1,000 sq ft)
• Professional broadcast seeding
• Hand cultivation of inaccessible areas
• Introduction of modern, disease-resistant grass genetics
• Lawn transformation from thin/bare to thick/lush

ROI Perspective: For a 5,000 sq ft lawn, the $207 difference between aeration and aeration + seed provides years of superior lawn performance from improved genetics.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Can I just seed patches in my lawn instead of the whole thing?

A: No, we have a minimum charge that covers up to 5,000 sq ft. Here’s why we don’t do small patches:

• Different texture and color: New TTTF seed will look different from your existing grass (likely older varieties or bluegrass). It will look like a patchwork quilt.
• Uneven appearance: Patch areas will be noticeably different—darker green, different blade width, different growth pattern
• Better approach: Seed entire lawn, front yard, or back yard as complete sections for uniform appearance

Q: Should I skip fertilizer applications when getting aeration and seeding?

A: NO! Do not skip fertilizer. The fertilizer is very beneficial for new seed. Here’s what happens:

• We note your account that lawn was seeded
• We continue fertilizer applications (great for new grass)
• We skip herbicide/weed killer for 6 weeks (protects new grass)
• At 6 weeks, we resume weed control once grass is mature (3 mowings)

Q: What seed do you use?

A: We use a premium blend of 3 Turf Type Tall Fescue cultivars specifically selected for the Eastern Nebraska region. This seed blend includes varieties with excellent NTEP (National Turfgrass Evaluation Program) testing results, meaning they’ve proven superior performance in:

• Disease resistance
• Drought tolerance
• Heat stress tolerance
• Color retention
• Density and texture

Q: How much seed do you apply?

A: We apply 5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft as a standard rate. In very thin or completely bare areas, we apply even higher rates. This is a thick application designed to create a dense, lush lawn.

Q: Do I need starter fertilizer with the seeding?

A: No, if you’re on our 6-step fertilizer program, your soil will have plenty of nutrients for the seed. Adding starter fertilizer would create over-fertilization, which can actually harm new seedlings. Our program provides everything your seed needs to thrive.

Q: How much do I need to water after aeration and seeding?

A: This is THE critical factor for success. Follow this schedule exactly:

• Weeks 1-4: Water 2-3 times per day (early morning, midday, early evening). Keep soil surface damp at all times.
  • Rule of thumb: Cut the run time in half from normal watering when watering 2-3 times a day
• Weeks 5-6: Water 1 time per day (early morning). Grass is establishing but still shallow.
• Week 7 through November: Resume regular watering 3× per week. Deeper, less frequent watering.

Critical: This is a guide. The soil surface MUST stay damp for seed to survive. New grass has no deep roots to access lower soil moisture—think of it like a newborn baby that needs frequent care.

Q: What if I don’t water or skip watering for a few days?

A: If you’re getting aeration and seeding and you don’t water consistently or skip watering for even 2-3 days during the first 4 weeks, it will DRAMATICALLY reduce your results. In many cases, the grass seed will DIE.

This is not optional or “recommended”—it’s an absolute requirement. We’re very clear about this because we don’t want customers disappointed with results when the failure was due to inadequate watering, not our service.

Q: Can you still aerate if I don’t have my sprinklers marked?

A: NO. We will NOT aerate or aerate and seed if sprinklers are not marked. We don’t want the liability of damaged sprinklers. You must:

• Mark all sprinkler heads with flags, stakes, or spray paint before service date
• Respond to our notification confirming sprinklers are marked
• If you can’t mark them, you’ll be rescheduled to a designated reschedule week

Q: What is the aftercare for aeration only (without seeding)?

A: Minimal aftercare needed:

• Mow normally (plugs will be chopped up and break down)
• Water normally (no special requirements)
• Plugs will naturally break down in 2-4 weeks from mowing and rain
• Leave the plugs in the lawn
• Resume all normal lawn activities immediately

Q: How often should I do aeration vs. aeration and seeding?

A: Different recommendations for each:

Aeration (Soil Health Maintenance)

• Every year: Recommended for all lawns to ensure roots can dive deep and water/nutrients penetrate soil
• Annual aeration prevents compaction from rebuilding and maintains healthy soil structure

Aeration & Seeding (Lawn Renovation)

• Case by case basis: Depends on lawn condition and goals
• If no new seed in 10+ years: Do it 3-4 years in a row to completely transform lawn genetics
• If lawn has damage: From pets, construction, fungus—aeration & seed repairs and renovates
• Thin or bare lawn: Do annually until desired density achieved, then maintain
• For absolute best lawn: Do it EVERY YEAR—this is the “secret sauce” when combined with 6-step program

Remember: Annual aeration & seeding + 6-step fertilizer program = championship-quality lawn. This is what golf courses and professional sports fields do.

Q: Why do you use stand-on aerators instead of walk-behind machines?

A: Walk-behind machines (like rental units) simply don’t do as good a job. Here’s why:

To get real, lasting benefits, we need to pull plugs 3-3.5 inches deep into the compacted clay layer where roots actually grow. Our professional stand-on equipment achieves this; rental walk-behinds don’t.

Q: Why can’t you seed in late October and November?

A: Late fall seeding fails for these reasons:

• Soil temperature: Below 55°F, germination takes 2-3+ weeks (vs. 7-10 days in September)
• Frost and freezes: Regular frost and hard freezes kill newly germinated seedlings
• Insufficient establishment: Grass doesn’t develop adequate roots before winter dormancy
• Winter kill: Weak seedlings don’t survive winter without established root systems

Our August 15 – September 30 window ensures warm soil + 6-8 weeks of growth time before winter = successful establishment.

Q: My lawn has completely bare areas. Is aeration and seeding still a good fit?

A: Yes, it can be, with proper expectations:

• We will pay special attention: Extra seed and cultivation in bare areas
• However, this isn’t new lawn installation: Designed for overseeding existing lawns, not building lawn from scratch
• Repeated service recommended: Severe bare areas may need 2-3 consecutive years of aeration & seeding to achieve desired density
• Realistic timeline: Year 1 fills in; Year 2 thickens; Year 3 perfects

For truly bare dirt (over 60% of lawn), you may want to consider full lawn renovation or sod installation instead.

Q: Why don’t you seed in the spring?

A: Quick answer: Success rate is minimal in spring (20-40% vs. 85-95% in fall). Here’s why:

• Must skip preemergent: Preemergent that prevents crabgrass also prevents grass seed germination
• Must skip weed control: Can’t spray herbicides for 6+ weeks, allowing weeds to explode and choke out seed
• Heat stress: Seed doesn’t fully establish before summer heat sets in; young plants with shallow roots require triple the watering
• Germination timing: Grass seed won’t germinate until soil reaches 55°F (typically early May), then faces immediate weed competition and heat stress

We don’t offer spring seeding because we won’t sell a service with a 60-80% failure rate. Fall seeding works; spring seeding doesn’t.

Q: Should I wait to start a fertilizer and weed control program until my lawn gets seeded?

A: NO! Start our 6-step program ASAP. Here’s why:

• Builds soil nutrients: Well-fed soil = better seed establishment
• Kills existing weeds: Less weed competition for new seed
• Creates ideal conditions: Healthy, nutrient-rich, weed-free soil = MUCH more successful overseeding
• Timeline: Start fertilizer program in spring; seed in fall = perfect preparation

The best lawns result from combining services: 6-step program + annual aeration & seeding = the secret sauce!

Q: Can I use my regular mower on the plugs or do I need special equipment?

A: Use your regular mower—no special equipment needed. The plugs will be chopped up by the mower blades and break down naturally. After 2-3 mowings, you won’t even see them anymore.

Q: Will aeration damage my lawn or make it look worse temporarily?

A: For aeration only: Lawn will look slightly messy for 1-2 weeks due to soil plugs on surface, but no damage. Plugs break down quickly.

For aeration & seeding: Very thin or bare areas may be completely torn up by the double-pass aeration—this is normal and beneficial. It creates maximum soil disruption for seed-to-soil contact. The lawn will look rough for 2-3 weeks, then new grass fills in beautifully.

Q: What if I have a dog that uses the lawn as a bathroom?

A: Not a problem for aeration. For aeration & seeding:

• Keep dog off newly seeded areas for first 2-3 weeks if possible (seed needs time to germinate and establish)
• Dog urine can create brown spots on new grass (high nitrogen burns seedlings)
• Foot traffic from dogs is fine once grass is 2-3 weeks old
• Consider designating specific dog area vs. show lawn area

Cross-Sell Opportunities

Recommended Service Combinations

6-Step Fertilizer and Weed Control Program ⭐ ESSENTIAL PAIRING

Why these services MUST be combined:

• Aeration without fertilizer = wasted potential: Opens soil but doesn’t provide nutrients
• Fertilizer without aeration = limited effectiveness: Nutrients can’t penetrate compacted soil to reach roots
• Together = championship lawn: Deep roots (from aeration) + optimal nutrition (from fertilizer) + weed-free (from herbicides) = best possible lawn
• The “secret sauce”: Annual aeration & seeding + 6-step program = what separates good lawns from exceptional lawns

Lawn Fungus and Disease Control

Why this pairs with aeration & seeding:

• New TTTF seed is more disease-resistant than old bluegrass, reducing future fungicide needs
• But during establishment year, young grass can be vulnerable to disease
• Fungicide protection during first summer helps new grass survive and thrive

Common Objections & Responses

Objection: “I can rent an aerator for $60—why pay you $90-297?”

Response: Rental walk-behind aerators pull 1-2 inch plugs at best. Our professional stand-on aerators pull 3-4 inch plugs—double the depth. That depth is the difference between scratching the surface and actually breaking compaction in the root zone where it matters. Plus, consider your time: 2-4 hours to pick up rental, operate it (very difficult, heavy machine), return it, plus $60-80 rental fee. For $90 professionally done with superior equipment, it’s a better value. And for aeration & seeding at $297, try buying 25-75 lbs of premium blue tag certified TTTF seed ($100-200), renting aerator ($60-80), broadcast spreader ($30-50), and spending an entire day doing it yourself—you’re at $200-280 in costs plus 8+ hours of labor.

Objection: “My lawn doesn’t look that bad—do I really need this?”

Response: Soil compaction happens gradually and invisibly underground. By the time you SEE symptoms (brown patches, thin areas, water runoff), compaction is severe. Annual aeration is preventative maintenance—like changing your car’s oil before the engine seizes. If you’re in Nebraska with clay soil, your lawn IS compacted from traffic and weather even if it looks okay. Aeration now prevents problems before they start. And if you want the BEST lawn (not just “okay”), aeration + seeding with modern genetics is how you get there.

Objection: “Can’t I just seed without aerating?”

Response: You could, but success rate is 10-20% vs. 85-95% with aeration. Here’s why: seed needs direct soil contact to germinate. On existing lawn, most seed sits on top of grass blades and thatch, never touching soil. It dries out and dies. Aeration creates holes where seed falls into direct soil contact and has protection from the elements. The double-pass aeration for our seeding service tears up the lawn surface, creating ideal seed-to-soil contact throughout. Without aeration, you’re wasting expensive seed.

Objection: “I’ll just seed in the spring when it warms up.”

Response: We specifically DON’T offer spring seeding because the success rate is only 20-40% vs. 85-95% in fall. Spring seeding fails because: (1) we must skip crabgrass preemergent, allowing crabgrass to choke out your seed, (2) we must skip herbicides, allowing weeds to explode, (3) seed germinates in May then faces 90°F+ heat before establishing deep roots, requiring triple the watering, (4) even with intense watering, most seed doesn’t survive first summer. Fall seeding works because seed establishes before winter, develops deep roots, and is ready to thrive next spring. We won’t take your money for spring seeding because we know it won’t work.

Objection: “Can you just seed the bare spots in my lawn?”

Response: We could, but it will look like a patchwork quilt. Here’s why: our seed is modern Turf Type Tall Fescue—darker green, finer texture, better performance than whatever grass is currently in your lawn (likely older bluegrass or old fescue varieties). The seeded patches will look noticeably different in color, texture, and growth pattern. It’s like patching blue jeans with different fabric—the patch is obvious. For uniform appearance, we recommend seeding entire lawn, front yard, or back yard as complete sections. Plus, our minimum charge covers 5,000 sq ft anyway, so you might as well seed the whole area and get a uniform, upgraded lawn.

Objection: “The watering requirement seems like too much work.”

Response: I understand—2-3 times daily for 4 weeks is definitely a commitment. But think of it this way: you’re investing $297-637 in seed and service. If you don’t water properly, you’ll waste that entire investment plus your lawn won’t improve. It’s like buying a gym membership but never going—money wasted. The watering is what activates your investment. Here’s the good news: if you have an irrigation system, it’s easy—just set the timer. If you don’t, 10-15 minutes of moving a sprinkler 2-3 times per day for a month isn’t that bad for a lawn that will look amazing for years. The effort is temporary; the results last for years. Or, choose aeration-only if the watering commitment is too much—you still get compaction relief without the watering requirement.

Key Talking Points for AI Responses

When discussing aeration services, emphasize:

• Annual aeration essential: “Every year to combat ongoing compaction—recommended for all lawns”
• Stand-on equipment advantage: “3-4 inch plugs vs. 1-2 inch from rentals—double the depth, double the benefit”
• The secret sauce: “Annual aeration & seeding + 6-step program = best lawn on the block”
• Fall timing critical: “Aug 15-Sept 30 for seeding: 85-95% success vs. 20-40% in spring”
• Why not spring: “Must skip preemergent and herbicides; heat stress kills seed; minimal success”
• Modern genetics: “TTTF: drought-tolerant, disease-resistant, stays green all season”
• Watering non-negotiable: “2-3× daily for 4 weeks is absolute requirement—seed dies without it”
• Sprinkler marking mandatory: “Must mark or service canceled—no exceptions”
• Double-pass for seeding: “Tears up lawn for maximum seed-to-soil contact”
• No patch seeding: “Creates patchwork quilt appearance—do whole areas for uniform look”

Service Decision Tree for AI