Yard Boss Lawn Fungus and Disease Control Program

AI Training Document – Internal Use Only

Service Overview

Yard Boss provides a comprehensive 5-application preventative fungus and disease control program for lawns. Our program protects turf during the critical May-September period when hot, humid conditions create ideal environments for lawn fungus and diseases.

What We Do

• 5 monthly applications from May through September (peak disease/fungus season)
• Dual-action liquid treatment combining both curative and preventative fungicides
• Rotating chemical formulations to prevent fungicide resistance (Mix #1 and Mix #2 alternated)
• Professional application using ride-on equipment or truck-mounted spray systems
• Preventative approach stopping disease before it becomes visible
• Flexible scheduling to respond to high disease pressure conditions

Understanding Lawn Fungus and Disease

Why Lawns Get Fungus in Summer

During hot, humid summer months, grass plants face extreme stress. High temperatures, high humidity, and warm overnight temperatures create perfect conditions for fungal pathogens to thrive and spread rapidly through lawns.

Common Lawn Diseases We Treat

• Brown Patch: Large, circular brown areas (most common in hot, humid weather)
• Dollar Spot: Small, silver-dollar-sized tan spots that merge into larger areas
• Powdery Mildew: White, powdery coating on grass blades (often in shaded areas)
• Fairy Ring: Circular rings of dark green grass or mushrooms
• Pythium Blight: Greasy-looking patches that appear quickly in hot, wet conditions
• Red Thread: Pink or red thread-like growth on grass blades
• Rust: Orange or rust-colored powder on grass blades

Environmental Conditions That Trigger Fungus

Lawn diseases thrive when specific conditions align:

• High temperatures: 80-95°F daytime temps
• High humidity: Relative humidity above 50%
• Warm nights: Overnight lows above 65°F
• Prolonged leaf wetness: Dew, irrigation, or rain keeping grass wet for extended periods
• Poor air circulation: Dense turf, calm winds, structures or homes blocking the wind

⚠️ THE 140 RULE ⚠️

Temperature + Humidity = Fungus Risk

When heat (°F) + humidity (%) ≥ 140, expect fungus problems

Example: 85°F + 60% humidity = 145 → HIGH RISK

The higher above 140, the greater the disease pressure

Why Prevention is Critical

Reactive vs. Preventative Approach

Why we focus on prevention:

• Fungus spreads rapidly: Once visible, disease may already be widespread
• Damage is permanent: Dead grass from disease won’t recover (requires reseeding)
• Reactive treatment is less effective: Curative products alone struggle to stop active outbreaks
• Environmental amplification: Weather conditions can make single applications ineffective
• Resistance development: Relying only on curative treatments increases resistance risk

Bottom line: By the time you see fungus damage, significant harm has already occurred. Prevention protects the lawn before disease takes hold.

Our Treatment Method

Dual-Action Liquid Fungicide System

We apply a combination of curative and preventative fungicides in every treatment. This dual approach provides both immediate control and long-term protection.

How Curative Fungicides Work

• Contact action: Fungicide lands on grass blades and kills fungus on contact
• Surface protection: Treats existing fungal infections on leaf surfaces
• Quick knockdown: Stops active disease spread rapidly
• Limitation: Only protects what it touches; doesn’t prevent new infections inside the plant
• Weather vulnerability: In humid conditions, new fungus can develop quickly after treatment

How Preventative Fungicides Work

• Systemic action: Fungicide is absorbed through roots and moves throughout the entire plant
• Internal protection: Protects grass from the inside out
• Longer duration: Provides protection as long as it remains in the plant tissue
• Watering requirement: MUST be watered in within 48 hours to reach roots and be absorbed
• Growth dilution: As grass grows and is mowed, protection gradually diminishes

Why We Combine Both Types

Using curative + preventative together provides:

1. Immediate control: Curative product stops any existing infections
2. Long-term protection: Preventative product protects new growth
3. Complete coverage: Surface and internal plant protection
4. Resistance management: Multiple modes of action reduce resistance development
5. Weather resilience: Protection continues even during prolonged humid periods

Application Equipment

We apply all fungicides as liquid spray using professional equipment:

• Ride-on spray equipment: For larger properties, uniform coverage
• Truck-mounted hose and chem gun: For smaller areas or obstacles
• All liquid formulation: Faster plant uptake and more precise application than granular

Why Liquid vs. Granular?

• Liquid products are absorbed by plants much faster
• More uniform coverage across entire lawn
• Can combine curative + preventative in single application
• Better adhesion to grass blades for curative action
• More precise dosing and mixing

Fungicide Rotation Strategy

⚠️ CRITICAL: Preventing Fungicide Resistance

Fungicide resistance is a MAJOR concern—more so than with any other lawn product we use. Using the same active ingredients repeatedly causes fungal pathogens to develop resistance, making the products ineffective.

Our Solution: Chemical Rotation

We alternate between two different fungicide mixes throughout the season to prevent resistance:

What’s in Mix #1 vs. Mix #2?

• Mix #1: Heritage 
• Mix #2: Eagle 

Each mix contains both curative and preventative components with different modes of action.

Program Structure & Timing

Standard 5-Application Schedule

Service Period: May 1 – September 30 (monthly applications)

Application Frequency: Minimum 20 days between applications (normally 30 days/monthly)

Why May Through September?

This window captures the entire disease-prone season:

• May: Temperatures rising, humidity increasing, early season diseases emerge
• June-August: Peak disease pressure (heat + humidity at maximum)
• September: Still warm enough for disease, final protection before fall dormancy

Flexible Scheduling for High Disease Pressure

Important: Under severe disease pressure conditions, we may need to apply treatments more frequently than the standard monthly schedule.

Factors That May Require Accelerated Applications:

• Extreme heat and humidity: Extended periods above the “140 rule”
• Prolonged wet conditions: Heavy rain or excessive irrigation
• Rapid grass growth: Fast growth dilutes preventative fungicide more quickly
• Active disease outbreak: Visible fungus spreading despite treatment
• Vulnerable grass types: Kentucky Bluegrass lawns during peak pressure

What this means: Applications may be moved up (closer than 30 days but still minimum 20 days apart) at our discretion based on conditions. This is to protect your lawn, not a sales tactic—we only accelerate when truly necessary.

Critical Post-Application Requirement

⚠️ MUST WATER IN WITHIN 48 HOURS ⚠️

The preventative fungicide component MUST be watered in within 48 hours of application to be effective.

Why Watering In Is Essential:

• Moves preventative fungicide from grass blades down to the soil

• Allows roots to absorb the systemic fungicide

• Enables the product to enter the plant and provide internal protection

• Without watering, the preventative component cannot work

Watering Instructions:

• Timing: Within 24 hours of application

• Amount: 0.25-0.5 inches of water (run sprinklers 15-30 minutes per zone)

• Method: Irrigation system or sprinkler

• Rain: Adequate rainfall can substitute for irrigation

Customer responsibility: Watering in is the homeowner’s responsibility. We will remind customers, but they must ensure irrigation occurs.

What We DO NOT Do (Service Exclusions)

Important: Communicate these limitations clearly to clients

• We do NOT use granular fungicides: Granular products are less effective and don’t allow us to combine curative + preventative in one application. Liquid is superior for fungus control.
• We will NOT skip applications: The 5-application program is designed as a complete system. Skipping treatments creates gaps in protection and defeats the preventative approach. If customers want selective treatment, this program isn’t right for them.
• We do NOT offer single-application reactive treatment: Fungus and disease are amplified by environmental conditions. A single application when disease is visible is ineffective because weather conditions will cause rapid reinfection.

Why We’re Firm on Complete Programs: Incomplete treatment programs lead to customer dissatisfaction when disease returns. We’d rather decline partial service than provide ineffective treatment that damages our reputation.

Pricing Structure

Standard Pricing

Base Price: $79 per application for first 5,000 square feet

Additional Area: $11 per 1,000 square feet

Tax: NO sales tax on fungicide applications

Pricing Examples (Per Application)

Important Pricing Notes:

• Pricing is per application (not per season)
• Full 5-application program = 5× the per-application price
• If additional applications are needed due to disease pressure, standard per-application pricing applies
• No sales tax on fungicide (unlike fertilizer/weed control which may have tax)
• If a client starts mid program, they are only billed for remaining applications

Compatibility with Other Services

Can Fungicide Be Applied with Other Treatments?

YES! Fungicide applications are compatible with all other lawn treatments.

• Fertilizer applications: Can be applied same day or even tank-mixed
• Weed control: Compatible for same-day application
• Insect control: Can be combined if needed
• Other treatments: No waiting period required between services

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Is fungicide treatment safe for pets, kids, and adults?

A: Yes. Like all products we use, once the application is dry, it is safe for everyone—pets, children, and adults. Drying typically takes about 1 hour but may take longer on cool, cloudy days.

Safety protocol: Keep people and pets off the lawn until dry (usually 1 hour). After that, normal use can resume.

Q: Should I do this program if I don’t currently have fungus or disease in my lawn?

A: It depends on your lawn’s history and grass type:

✅ YES, you should do the program if:

• Your lawn has a history of fungus or disease (even if currently clear)
• You have primarily Kentucky Bluegrass (highly susceptible to fungus)
• Your lawn experiences regular brown/dead patches in summer
• You’ve had disease problems in previous years
• You want preventative protection (cheaper than reseeding dead areas)

❌ NO, you probably don’t need the program if:

• Your lawn has NO history of fungus or disease
• You have primarily Turf Type Tall Fescue (more disease resistant)
• Your lawn stays healthy all summer without treatment

HOWEVER: If you notice unusual brown, yellow, or dead spots during summer, contact us immediately so we can diagnose the issue. Early detection is critical.

Q: Can I just do one application when I see fungus instead of the full program?

A: No. This is why:

• Environmental amplification: Fungus and disease are driven by heat, humidity, and wet conditions. Even if we kill the fungus, weather conditions will cause reinfection within days.
• Overnight lows above 65°F: When nights stay warm, disease pressure is continuous—one application won’t provide lasting control
• Preventative component needs time: The systemic fungicide needs to be in the plant before disease strikes
• Damage is permanent: By the time you see fungus, grass is already dead. Prevention is the only effective approach.

Bottom line: Reactive single treatments don’t work for lawn fungus. The full preventative program is necessary for control.

Q: Is there any waiting period after other lawn treatments before applying fungicide?

A: No. Fungicide can be applied at any time with any other lawn treatments. It can even be done on the same day or tank-mixed with other products like fertilizer or weed control. There are no compatibility issues or waiting periods.

Q: Will I have to do fungicide treatments every year forever?

A: It depends on your grass type:

• Kentucky Bluegrass lawns: Yes, it is highly likely you will need fungicide treatments every year. Kentucky Bluegrass is extremely susceptible to summer fungus diseases, especially brown patch.
• Turf Type Tall Fescue lawns: This is case-by-case. Tall fescue is more disease-resistant than bluegrass. Some fescue lawns need treatment; others don’t. We’ll assess your specific situation.

Long-term solution: Overseeding with newer, disease-resistant grass cultivars can reduce (but not eliminate) the need for fungicide over time.

Q: What fungicide products are you using?

A: We use professional-grade fungicides that combine both curative and preventative active ingredients. We rotate between two different chemical mixes (Mix #1 and Mix #2) to prevent resistance development.

Q: Is this granular or liquid application?

A: This is an all-liquid product that we spray onto the lawn. Liquid products:

• Act much faster than granular
• Can be taken up by the plant much faster
• Provide better coverage and adhesion to grass blades
• Allow us to combine curative + preventative in one application
• Offer more precise dosing

This is why we exclusively use liquid fungicides—they’re simply more effective.

Q: When am I most likely to see fungus and disease?

A: During hot, humid days. Use the 140 Rule as a guideline:

Temperature (°F) + Humidity (%) = Fungus Risk

If the total equals or exceeds 140, expect fungus problems

The higher above 140, the more severe the disease pressure

Examples:

• 85°F + 60% humidity = 145 → High risk
• 90°F + 55% humidity = 145 → High risk
• 80°F + 50% humidity = 130 → Lower risk

Other high-risk conditions:

• Overnight lows staying above 65°F
• Extended periods of morning dew
• Frequent rainfall or over-irrigation
• Poor air circulation in lawn

Q: What is the difference between curative and preventative fungicide?

A: They work in completely different ways:

Analogy:

• Curative = Washing bacteria off your hands (removes surface threat)
• Preventative = Vaccine in your bloodstream (internal protection)

This is why we use BOTH—curative kills existing fungus, preventative stops new infections from taking hold.

Q: Will my lawn always have fungus and disease?

A: Not necessarily. It depends on:

• Specific fungus type: Some diseases are more persistent than others
• Weather conditions: Cool, dry summers have less disease pressure (but we can’t predict weather)
• Grass type: Kentucky Bluegrass is always susceptible; fescue varies
• Cultural practices: Proper mowing height and watering reduce disease
• Lawn genetics: Newer disease-resistant cultivars help

Long-term management: Overseeding with newer, more fungus-resistant grass cultivars can reduce disease severity over time. However, even resistant varieties can get fungus under extreme pressure.

Q: Why does the fungicide protection only last a month or less?

A: The grass literally grows out of the fungicide. Here’s how:

1. Preventative fungicide is absorbed through roots and moves into the grass plant
2. The fungicide concentrates in the plant tissue
3. Each time you mow, you remove the top portion of the grass blade
4. The removed portion contains fungicide, reducing overall protection
5. New growth at the base has less fungicide concentration

Example: If your grass is 4 inches tall and you mow off 1 inch, you’ve removed 25% of the plant—including 25% of the fungicide protection. After 3-4 mowings, most of the protective fungicide has been removed.

Why fast-growing lawns need more frequent applications: When conditions are ideal (warm, wet), grass grows faster. Faster growth = more frequent mowing = faster dilution of fungicide. This is why we may need to move applications closer during rapid growth periods.

Q: Is there anything I can do to prevent fungus and disease?

A: Yes! Two critical cultural practices make a huge difference:

1. MOW AT 3.5-4 INCHES HEIGHT

Why this helps:

• Taller grass = deeper roots = healthier plant
• Healthier plants can fight disease better
• Taller canopy shades soil, reducing fungal spore germination
• More leaf surface area = better photosynthesis = stronger plant

Action: Set mower to highest setting (3.5-4 inches). Never cut more than 1/3 of grass height in one mowing.

2. DO NOT WATER IN THE EVENING OR OVERNIGHT

Why this is critical:

• Evening watering keeps grass wet all night (8-12 hours)
• Fungal spores need only 6-8 hours of leaf wetness to germinate and infect
• Overnight wetness creates perfect conditions for disease
• Morning dew already keeps grass wet—adding evening irrigation makes it worse

The Wet Socks Analogy:

Think of your lawn like your feet. If you wear wet socks all the time, you’ll get toenail fungus and athlete’s foot. Same concept with your lawn—constant wetness = fungus growth.

Proper watering schedule:

• Best time: Early morning (4-8 AM)
• Why: Grass dries quickly as sun rises, minimizing wetness duration
• Frequency: Deep, infrequent watering (1 inch per week total, including rain)
• NEVER: Evening or overnight irrigation (5 PM – 4 AM)

Q: Why does fungicide service cost more than the 6-application fertilizer program?

A: Great question. There are several reasons:

• Product cost: Fungicides are significantly more expensive than fertilizer and weed control products. Professional-grade fungicides cost 2× more per application than standard fertilizer.
• Multiple active ingredients: We must mix multiple products together to control different fungus types and provide both curative and preventative action.
• Resistance management: We need two complete sets of products (Mix #1 and Mix #2) to rotate chemistry and prevent resistance—essentially double the product inventory.
• Specialized application: Liquid fungicide application requires specific equipment, calibration, and expertise.
• Higher application rate: Fungicides are applied at higher volumes than fertilizer for proper coverage.

Value perspective: While more expensive than fertilizer, fungicide is cheaper than reseeding large dead areas from disease damage. Dead grass from fungus won’t recover—it must be reseeded. Prevention costs less than repair.

Q: Can I do just 3 applications instead of 5 to save money?

A: No, we don’t offer partial programs. Here’s why:

• Gaps in coverage allow disease to establish and spread
• Inconsistent protection leads to customer dissatisfaction
• Weather conditions during “skipped” months may be worst for disease
• Our program is designed as a complete system—partial treatment is ineffective

We’d rather be honest about the investment required than provide inadequate treatment that doesn’t protect your lawn.

Q: What if I’m already enrolled in your 6-app fertilizer program—do I need fungicide too?

A: The 6-app program and fungicide program serve different purposes:

• 6-app program: Fertilization + weed control = nutrition and weed management
• Fungicide program: Disease prevention and control

A healthy, well-fed lawn (from the 6-app program) will be more disease-resistant, but Kentucky Bluegrass lawns still need fungicide for summer disease control. The programs complement each other but don’t substitute for one another.

Cross-Sell Opportunities

Recommended Complementary Services

Aeration and Overseeding ⭐ HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Why these services work together:

• Introduce disease-resistant genetics: Newer grass cultivars have been bred for fungus resistance
• Reduce long-term fungicide dependency: More resistant grass = less disease = potentially fewer treatments needed
• Improve lawn density: Thicker lawns resist disease better
• Best timing: Fall overseeding (after fungicide season) introduces new genetics for next year

Key message: “Over time, adding newer disease-resistant grass varieties through overseeding can lessen your lawn’s fungicide needs.”

6-Application Fertilizer and Weed Control Program ⭐ RECOMMENDED

Why these services work together:

• Healthy lawns resist disease better: Proper nutrition creates stronger plants
• Stress reduction: Well-fed grass can better withstand disease pressure
• Recovery ability: Healthy lawns recover faster from minor disease damage
• Complete care: Nutrition + weed control + disease control = comprehensive lawn health

Other Synergistic Services

• Core aeration: Reduces soil compaction, improves drainage (reduces fungus-friendly wet conditions)
• Irrigation system optimization: Proper watering timing reduces disease
• Soil testing: Identifies nutrient imbalances that may stress grass

Common Objections & Responses

Objection: “That seems expensive for just fungus treatment.”

Response: I understand the concern about cost. Let’s look at the math. Reseeding dead areas from fungus damage costs $300-$800+ , plus the time it takes for new grass to establish (6-8 weeks minimum). For a typical lawn, fungicide prevention costs $395-$670 for the entire season—less than the cost to reseed just one or two damaged areas. Plus, once grass dies from disease, it’s gone permanently until you reseed. Prevention is significantly cheaper than repair, and you maintain your beautiful lawn all summer instead of looking at dead spots.

Objection: “My lawn looks fine right now—I’ll wait and see if I need it.”

Response: That’s exactly the problem with fungus—by the time you see it, significant damage has already occurred. Fungus spreads incredibly fast in the right conditions. A small patch can become a large dead area within 3-5 days during peak disease weather. Plus, dead grass from fungus doesn’t recover—it’s permanently dead until you reseed. Our preventative program protects your lawn before disease takes hold. Think of it like homeowner’s insurance—you don’t wait until after the fire to buy coverage. The 140 Rule tells us that fungus conditions are predictable based on weather, so we know the threat is coming even when lawns currently look healthy.

Objection: “Can’t I just do a treatment when I see fungus appear?”

Response: Unfortunately, reactive treatment doesn’t work well for lawn fungus. Here’s why: fungus is driven by environmental conditions—heat, humidity, and moisture. Even if we kill the existing fungus, the same weather conditions will cause reinfection within days. It’s like trying to stay dry in a rainstorm by drying off once—you’re wet again immediately. The only effective approach is preventative treatment that protects the grass from the inside out all season long. Plus, by the time fungus is visible, grass is already dead in many areas. We can stop the spread, but we can’t bring dead grass back to life.

Objection: “I’ll just overseed and get disease-resistant grass instead.”

Response: Overseeding with disease-resistant varieties is definitely a smart long-term strategy, and we highly recommend it! However, even the most disease-resistant cultivars can still get fungus under severe pressure—they’re resistant, not immune. Plus, it takes 2-3 years of overseeding to significantly change your lawn’s genetic makeup. In the meantime, your current grass still needs protection. The best approach is both: protect your existing lawn with fungicide while gradually introducing more resistant genetics through overseeding. That’s why we recommend pairing our fungicide program with fall aeration and overseeding for long-term disease management.

Objection: “Why can’t I skip a few applications to save money?”

Response: We’ve designed this as a 5-application program because that’s what’s needed for effective season-long protection. Skipping applications creates gaps where disease can establish. The problem is you don’t know which month will have the worst disease pressure—it varies by year based on weather. Last year, July might have been worst; this year it might be June. If you skip June to save $79 and June ends up being the highest disease pressure month, you’ll have widespread fungus damage costing hundreds to repair. We only offer the complete program because partial programs don’t work and lead to customer frustration. We’d rather be honest about the investment needed than sell you something that won’t protect your lawn.

Objection: “My neighbor doesn’t treat for fungus and his lawn looks fine.”

Response: That’s great for your neighbor! Fungus susceptibility varies based on several factors: grass type (fescue vs. bluegrass), cultural practices (mowing height, watering schedule), sun exposure, soil drainage, and even the specific fungus strains present in each yard. Your neighbor may have Turf Type Tall Fescue, which is more disease-resistant than Kentucky Bluegrass. Or they may practice perfect watering habits—early morning only, proper amounts—which reduces disease pressure. However, if your lawn has a history of fungus, it means your specific conditions make your lawn susceptible. We base our recommendations on your lawn’s actual history and conditions, not your neighbor’s different situation.

Key Talking Points for AI Responses

When discussing fungus control, emphasize:

• Prevention over reaction: “By the time you see fungus, grass is already dead”
• The 140 Rule: “When temp + humidity ≥ 140, expect disease”
• Dead grass doesn’t recover: “Fungus damage is permanent—requires reseeding”
• Complete program required: “Partial treatment doesn’t work—weather is unpredictable”
• Dual-action approach: “Curative + preventative for immediate and long-term protection”
• Resistance management: “We rotate chemistry to keep products effective”
• Grass type matters: “Kentucky Bluegrass highly susceptible; fescue more resistant”
• Cost vs. repair: “Prevention cheaper than reseeding dead areas”
• Cultural practices help: “Mow tall (3.5-4″) and water early morning”
• Must water in: “Preventative fungicide requires watering within 24 hours”

Grass Type Susceptibility Guide

For AI: If customer is unsure of grass type, recommend a free lawn assessment where we’ll identify grass species and assess fungicide needs.